ROCHLITZ CLIMBING GARDEN - Thanks to its large meadow areas, the climbing garden is very family-friendly.
The climbing area is located on Rochlitz Mountain and is characterized by its reddish-yellow porphyry.
It consists of two areas: the Seidelbruch with easy to medium routes and a freestanding tower, the Bruchwächter, as well as the Gleisbergbruch with medium to very difficult routes.
Originating from abandoned quarries, it offers diverse wall climbing routes and some great crack lines. The rock usually dries quickly after rain.
Seidelbruch has large, flat meadow areas, making the climbing park very family-friendly.
In addition, the area offers several tourist attractions, including a porphyry nature trail, a lookout tower and restaurant, old crane installations and a forest playground.
The porphyry is quite solid in its basic substance, but on some routes the rock surface is a little crumbly, which is why a helmet is recommended.
The Saxon Mountaineering Association has been the leaseholder of the rocky areas in Gleisberg and Seidelbruch since mid-2016 and has obtained the necessary nature conservation permits.
In the second half of 2016, the SBB's KTA (Cantonal Climbing Authority) renovated almost all the routes in the Gleisberg quarry and added anchors according to current safety standards. Regarding the renovation of the routes in the Gleisberg quarry, it was agreed with the first ascensionist, Mike Jäger, that the challenging nature of the protection on his routes in the Gleisberg quarry should be maintained.
Since many of the routes involve crack climbing, additional protection using mobile camming devices is possible in some places.
The use of chalk should be largely avoided. After climbing, chalk should be removed from the holds and footholds immediately.
Number of routes:
Approximately 30 in the Gleisberg quarry (between 5 and 8+)
approx. 50 in Seidelbruch (between UIAA 2 and 10)
Climbing guide: The Saxon Volcano – Climbing and hiking guide Rochlitz Mountain, available from SBB
Seidelbruch is suitable for families
Gleisbergbruch for crack enthusiasts, little sun, rarely windy, some areas remain damp for a long time.
Haberkorn's quarries are of tourist interest – but climbing is prohibited there!
Securing track bed collapses: secure adhesive hooks, often relatively large spacing, clamping devices recommended
Seidelbruch belay system: modern sport climbing belaying
Rock quality: very compact porphyry with a slightly crumbly surface; caution is advised with slabs created by quarrying – these are very unstable.
Rules for climbing on Rochlitz Mountain:
Entering the Gleisbergbruch and Seidelbruch quarries is at your own risk.
Please use the designated parking areas for hikers. Parking directly at the trailheads is not permitted.
Access is via the marked trails. For rappelling into the Gleisberg quarry, please use the designated rappel points and do not rappel from the viewing platform or from trees.
Climbing is only permitted in areas approved and marked by the nature conservation authority. First ascents are only allowed with prior authorization from the nature conservation authority and therefore must be coordinated with the SBB (Swiss Federal Railways) beforehand. For the Gleisberg quarry, the lines shown in blue in this overview have been approved for new first ascents (except routes #1-3 in the "Adagio" sector).
Only safety equipment that complies with the guidelines specified below may be used for the first ascents! No further first ascents are permitted outside the marked areas.
Getting out beyond the redirect hooks and into the dry stone walls is not permitted.
No climbing/abseiling on the so-called "number wall" (rock face with years).
The use of chalk should be largely avoided. After climbing, chalk should be removed from the holds and footholds immediately.
Entering the rear part of the Seidelbruch (active mining area) is not permitted.
Throughout the Seidel quarry, the instructions of the quarry staff must be followed at all times. Climbing may be restricted on weekdays!
During the last week of June each year, access to the entire Seidelbruch area is prohibited.
This week, access to the Seidel quarry is only permitted as part of the "Performance zum Stein" event.
Temporary climbing ban!
It consists of two areas: the Seidelbruch with easy to medium routes and a freestanding tower, the Bruchwächter, as well as the Gleisbergbruch with medium to very difficult routes.
Originating from abandoned quarries, it offers diverse wall climbing routes and some great crack lines. The rock usually dries quickly after rain.
Seidelbruch has large, flat meadow areas, making the climbing park very family-friendly.
In addition, the area offers several tourist attractions, including a porphyry nature trail, a lookout tower and restaurant, old crane installations and a forest playground.
The porphyry is quite solid in its basic substance, but on some routes the rock surface is a little crumbly, which is why a helmet is recommended.
The Saxon Mountaineering Association has been the leaseholder of the rocky areas in Gleisberg and Seidelbruch since mid-2016 and has obtained the necessary nature conservation permits.
In the second half of 2016, the SBB's KTA (Cantonal Climbing Authority) renovated almost all the routes in the Gleisberg quarry and added anchors according to current safety standards. Regarding the renovation of the routes in the Gleisberg quarry, it was agreed with the first ascensionist, Mike Jäger, that the challenging nature of the protection on his routes in the Gleisberg quarry should be maintained.
Since many of the routes involve crack climbing, additional protection using mobile camming devices is possible in some places.
The use of chalk should be largely avoided. After climbing, chalk should be removed from the holds and footholds immediately.
Number of routes:
Approximately 30 in the Gleisberg quarry (between 5 and 8+)
approx. 50 in Seidelbruch (between UIAA 2 and 10)
Climbing guide: The Saxon Volcano – Climbing and hiking guide Rochlitz Mountain, available from SBB
Seidelbruch is suitable for families
Gleisbergbruch for crack enthusiasts, little sun, rarely windy, some areas remain damp for a long time.
Haberkorn's quarries are of tourist interest – but climbing is prohibited there!
Securing track bed collapses: secure adhesive hooks, often relatively large spacing, clamping devices recommended
Seidelbruch belay system: modern sport climbing belaying
Rock quality: very compact porphyry with a slightly crumbly surface; caution is advised with slabs created by quarrying – these are very unstable.
Rules for climbing on Rochlitz Mountain:
Entering the Gleisbergbruch and Seidelbruch quarries is at your own risk.
Please use the designated parking areas for hikers. Parking directly at the trailheads is not permitted.
Access is via the marked trails. For rappelling into the Gleisberg quarry, please use the designated rappel points and do not rappel from the viewing platform or from trees.
Climbing is only permitted in areas approved and marked by the nature conservation authority. First ascents are only allowed with prior authorization from the nature conservation authority and therefore must be coordinated with the SBB (Swiss Federal Railways) beforehand. For the Gleisberg quarry, the lines shown in blue in this overview have been approved for new first ascents (except routes #1-3 in the "Adagio" sector).
Only safety equipment that complies with the guidelines specified below may be used for the first ascents! No further first ascents are permitted outside the marked areas.
Getting out beyond the redirect hooks and into the dry stone walls is not permitted.
No climbing/abseiling on the so-called "number wall" (rock face with years).
The use of chalk should be largely avoided. After climbing, chalk should be removed from the holds and footholds immediately.
Entering the rear part of the Seidelbruch (active mining area) is not permitted.
Throughout the Seidel quarry, the instructions of the quarry staff must be followed at all times. Climbing may be restricted on weekdays!
During the last week of June each year, access to the entire Seidelbruch area is prohibited.
This week, access to the Seidel quarry is only permitted as part of the "Performance zum Stein" event.
Temporary climbing ban!
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