© Robin Kunz

research texts

Belgern – The city with the Roland between the Elbe and the Dahlener Heide

© Andreas Schmidt

The northern Saxon town of Belgern-Schildau lies on the edge of the Dahlener Heide between the Elbe and Schildberg. The town was formed in 2013 from the merger of the historic and traditional towns of Belgern and Schildau. The famous Roland figure, the only one in Saxony from 1610, gave Belgern the nickname "Roland City".

1000 Years of Living History

The famous writer and publisher Karl Baedecker wrote in a travel guide in the 19th century that the town of Belgern on the Elbe was as charming as beautiful Benares in India. The medieval townscape rises up on the steep bank of the Elbe. The imposing tower of the fortified church and the playful bell tower of the Renaissance town hall can be seen from afar.

Belgern was first mentioned in a document in 973. Since the town was founded at the beginning of the 9th century, Belgern has had a varied history. Due to its favorable natural conditions, the town has always been a popular settlement area. In addition, the main road along the Elbe crossed the trade route running from west to east here. The monks' wine-growing from 1210, shipping and beer brewing in particular helped the town to prosper and gain national prestige. However, the early boom was followed by decline: Since Belgern had no modern fortifications, it was plundered several times by imperial and Swedish troops during the Thirty Years' War and almost completely destroyed in 1632. Of the approximately 20.000 inhabitants, only seven married couples and three children remained in the town 14 years later, and after the end of the war it sank into complete insignificance. In 1815 the area finally came under Prussia.

In 2013, the town of Belgern-Schildau was founded through the merger of the Rolandstadt Belgern and the Gneisenaustadt Schildau. The administrative headquarters are in Belgern.

Stroll through the old town of Belgern

The well-preserved original state of the old town of Belgern makes it a real rarity in Saxony. In the historic town centre, the huge market square surrounded by old town houses impresses with the imposing town hall, whose red colour refers to the former owner of the town, Bishop Johann IX von Haugwitz of Meissen. It was built between 1575 and 1578 in the Renaissance style.

On the left corner of the town hall stands the symbol of Belgern, the almost six-meter-tall historical Roland, carved from sandstone, which also gave the town its nickname. The original wooden figure dates from 1550 and was replaced by the stone Roland in 1610 by the sculptor Peter Büringer. Courts were held at Roland's feet, verdicts were pronounced and bakers whose rolls were a little too small had to sell them cheaper in front of Roland. In his black armor with bare feet, gusseted beard and raised flaming sword, he still watches over the town today as a symbol of sovereignty.

Opposite the town hall on the other side of the market is the distance column. This was built with the introduction of the Saxon postal service in 1730 and identifies Belgern as a post station. The distances engraved are the hours it took to reach the destination. Next to the town hall was the famous inn "Zum goldenen Engel", where Katharina von Bora stayed overnight on her escape from the Nimbschen monastery.

The path leads over medieval cobblestones to the late Gothic church of St. Bartholomew. The church was built between 1509 and 1512 by monks from the Cistercian monastery, which was active in Belgern for around 500 years until it was dissolved during the Reformation. Martin Luther himself preached in the town in 1522, which converted to the Lutheran faith three years later. The memorial stone to the left of the church reminds us that Luther was in Belgern. The rich 17th century furnishings with the two-storey sacristy are impressive. The organ is a work by Johann Gottlob Mende from 1844 with 24 registers on two manuals and pedal. Outside the church there are three baroque figurative gravestones as well as the legendary sandstone relief of the "Mermaid Child" and the "Devil's Horseshoe" on one window.

Along the steep bank of the Elbe you reach the monastery courtyard from 1258, which was once a branch of the Buch monastery. According to legend, monks dug a secret passage under the Elbe in order to reach the nunnery in Mühlberg unnoticed. The history of the monastery courtyard is documented in the city museum, which is located in the old town house "Alte Schmiede" on the Topfmarkt. Here you can view exhibits and archaeological finds from the city's prehistoric and early history. Not far from the city's former vineyards you come to the Oschatz Gate, which is the only one of the original four city gates and the last part of the fortifications that is still preserved.

Discover Belgium's gastronomy

If you want to experience Belgern's culinary side, there are numerous places to stop off for a break with regional cuisine. A visit to "Storms Gasthof Zur Alten Brauerei" is recommended. Beer lovers can enjoy a home-brewed Zwickel beer or dark beer in the beer garden under the walnut tree in the summer months.

A visit to the restaurant “Zur Fährdiele” is also worthwhile: The small, family-run restaurant is located directly on the Elbe cycle path with a view of the Elbe and the Elbe ferry. You can enjoy the view from the outdoor seating area.

Belgern's famous sons

The Lutheran theologian Georg Lehmann, born here in 1616, is considered a famous son of the city. In 1652 he was a Saturday preacher and later a pastor at St. Nicholas Church in Leipzig. Friedrich Anton von Heynitz, born in 1725 in the Belgeran district of Dröschkau, is considered one of the greatest German economists of the 18th century and a reorganizer of the mining and metallurgy industry in Prussia. Von Heynitz also became known as a co-founder of the Freiberg Mining Academy.

Event tips, festivals, customs

An integral part of the events calendar is the annual town and marksmen's festival at Pentecost in the Döhner and around the open-air stage. This traditionally begins with a torchlight procession and the Rolandstadt brass band provides the musical accompaniment. The highlight of the celebrations is the crowning of the marksmen's king. The festival lasts three days and attracts many visitors to the Rolandstadt. The annual Christmas market and Advent in the courtyards also invite you to stroll: with Christmas music as well as mulled wine and gingerbread, visitors are put in the pre-Christmas mood. Carnival time is particularly popular in Belgern. The fifth season is celebrated in the marksmen's house with unusual costumes, red clown noses and atmospheric carnival music. The highlights include the carnival parade and the children's carnival.

Excursion tips in the area

A well-signposted network of cycle, hiking and bridle paths in the Belgern-Dahlener Heide offers visitors numerous excursion options for active recreation. Hikes through the Dahlener Heide or a bike tour along the international Elbe cycle path that runs directly past Belgern are highlights for visitors. A detour to the Treblitzsch landscape park, four kilometers south of the town, is worthwhile. Thanks to the extremely favorable local climatic conditions, a variety of over 250 different foreign and domestic trees can be cultivated in a small space in the park. Every year in spring, wood anemones and rhododendrons decorate large areas of the park. In autumn, the magnificent orange foliage of the beech trees dominates. Another tip would be a trip through the forest past the Jägereiche, Tote Magd and Brehms Ruhe to Schmannewitz with its post mill or the Rural Museum.

Important facts at one glance

The small town of Belgern-Schildau, located in the district of North Saxony, has around 22 inhabitants in 8.000 districts. The town can be reached by car via the B87 and the B182. Take the S-Bahn 4 from Leipzig to the nearest train station, Torgau, and from there take the 764 bus to Belgern.