© Robin Kunz

research texts

Colditz – a thousand-year-old film set – steeped in history and mystery

© Andreas Schmidt

Colditz Castle rises like a crown on a 30-meter-high rock above the town. In its almost thousand-year history, it has been used as an electoral hunting lodge, a poorhouse and prison camp. It is one of the pearls of the Saxon Burgenland, which are lined up along the Mulde.

As a prisoner of war camp for Allied officers in the Second World War, it is known far beyond Germany's borders, among other things through the film "Colditz Castle". The castle is also home to a comfortable youth hostel, the Saxony State Music Academy and the Colditz Castle Society.

At the foot of the castle in the valley of the Zwickauer Mulde lies the neatly decorated town of Colditz with its approximately 9.000 inhabitants. In 2015, the town celebrated its 750th anniversary. Since the beginning of 2011, 25 districts have belonged to the municipality. Since then, their interests have been taken into account in all municipal projects under the motto "COLDITZ UNITES - Shaping the future together". The districts originally emerged as Slavic settlements in what was then the Burgwart district. The Zwickauer Mulde, which joins the Freiberger Mulde near Sermuth just a few kilometers to the north, caresses the eastern part of the historic town center. The fertile river landscape is home to many people who make their living primarily in agriculture and forestry. The downside of the proximity to the river is evident in the 30 floods that have hit Colditz. The area south of Colditz is called Zweimuldenland.

Thanks to nearby kaolin and clay deposits, the town gained great economic importance for the former Saxon Electorate. With the invention of European porcelain by the alchemist Johann Friedrich Böttger and his colleague Ehrenfried Walther von Tschirnhaus in 1708, the basis for ceramics production was laid in Colditz. Industrial earthenware production began in 1804. In 1958, the switch from earthenware to household and hotel porcelain took place, which was also exported all over the world until after 1990.

On the trail of an eventful history

An old Sorbian fishing settlement and a market town developed early on at a ford through the Mulde. In 1046, a castle was first mentioned under the old Slavic name "burchwardo Cholidistcha", which served as a castle ward for the surrounding villages alongside Rochlitz and Leisnig. Emperor Henry IV handed the castle complex over to his follower Wiprecht von Groitzsch in 1084. In 1158, Frederick I ("Barbarossa") made Colditz an imperial property and transferred it, along with 20 Slavic villages, to Thimo I, who thus established the more than 250-year rule of the later "Lords of Colditz". In 1404, Colditz became the property of the Wettins for 15.000 marks of silver.

Colditz was first mentioned as a town (“civitas”) in 1265 in a document about the milling rights of the Lastauer mill. During the first religious war of modern times, the Hussites took the town and castle in 1430 and set them on fire. Just 70 years later, another devastating fire raged, almost completely destroying the town and castle. At the beginning of the 16th century, a spacious zoo with game was built below the castle hill, which is believed to have been the first in Germany. Later, surrounded by a 7,5-kilometer-long wall, the oldest hunting ground was created. There had been a clothmakers' guild since 1352, which experienced its heyday in the 16th century - also thanks to demand from court society. The town was provided with a town wall with five town gates from 1505 to 1527. Thanks to the influence of the Electress Sophie, the Reformation was introduced in Colditz as early as 1518. The Ducat of St. Sophia is also to thank for. Napoleon's campaigns cost the town immense tribute payments. In addition, in 1813 thousands of soldiers crossed the Mulde Bridge on their way to the Battle of the Nations near Leipzig. Three information boards in the town provide information about the town's history. Fortunately, Colditz was spared destruction in the Second World War. The buildings, which were badly neglected during the GDR era, were gradually upgraded in 1990. A number of clubs ensure sporting and cultural diversity in the lively community.

Worth seeing urban idyll

The town hall is the impressive dominant feature of the market square, which is located at the foot of the castle hill and is surrounded by restored buildings. The three-storey building was completed in 1657 in the Renaissance style. It has a dormer on three sides with richly decorated volute gables. The rooms are fitted with painted net vaults. It is worth watching the town hall clock on the hour, because that is when the two goats below it butt their horns together.

Other buildings worth seeing on the market include the "Zum Goldenen Engel" pharmacy, the castle café, the Renaissance house at Markt 13 and the former brewery building - known for the former "Schwarze Sau" beer brand. The latter now houses the tourist information office. Above the market square is the town church of St. Egidien. The imposing building, together with the castle, forms the silhouette of Colditz. Due to its good acoustics, it forms the backdrop for concerts by the Colditzer Liedertafel, the town's men's choir. This choir can look back on a 150-year tradition.

Museums as testimonies to tradition and for participation

The carpentry museum of Christof Schneider at Schlossgasse 2 is well worth seeing. He set up a fully functioning carpentry workshop with technology from 1895 in the family business from 1908. The “Art+Museum project” of the Diakonie is just like the The Dental History Museum is worth a visit. The second largest basket collection in Germany is located in the Village and Basket Museum in Schönbach. The foundation for this was put together by master basket maker Otto Prischmann from Leipzig. Weaving is possible on request. You can learn about the life of our ancestors in the country in the Farmers' Museum in Schwarzbach. The birthplace of the founder of scientific numismatics and co-founder of library science, Johann David Köhler (born 1684), has an impressive exhibition on the history of coins. An exhibition of cultural assets from the last 200 years is shown in the Knochenmuß family's local history room in the Podelwitz moated castle. The exhibits from the history of the German Post Office and from corner shops as well as toys from the past represent one of the most extensive collections in all of Saxony. This "hands-on museum" also has the odd anecdote to tell.

Experience and enjoy the atmosphere

In this charming little town, guests will find many local specialties and small shops to browse. The Waldhaus restaurant is rich in tradition and also has guest rooms. You can have a good, inexpensive meal at Martickes or in the Kutscherstube, which is located directly on the Luther Trail on the edge of the Colditz Forest. With an expert guide, you can experience the history of the castle up close or take a ride in a horse-drawn carriage through the idyllic forest and meadows.

Charming landscape for every taste

There are many options for hikers, cyclists, canoeists and horse riders in the charming Colditz area. It is recommended to climb the more than 100-year-old local tower on the Töpelsberg south of the town with its 21-meter-high viewing platform. The hilly Mulde valley landscape with large areas of forest, fields and meadows creates a romantic atmosphere. The largest forest area, the Colditz-Glastener Forest, extends over 3.000 hectares. Here there are some straight, kilometer-long clearings, as well as streams and fens and a diverse vegetation with mixed forest. This creates the best living conditions for wild animals and mushrooms.

In summer, the Colditz forest pool, which was modernized in the mid-1990s, is a magnet for those who enjoy swimming. The romantic moated castle in Podelwitz can be reached on foot through the Thümmlitz forest, by bike on the Mulde cycle path or by canoe. Leisurely hikers can best explore the beautiful area around Colditz on the circular hiking trail. One section of the route leads through the historic zoo. In addition to the route from Commichau to Maaschwitz, the Luther Trail in Saxony is also followed. The hiking route leads along the Zwickauer Mulde and past the Colditz Forest back to the city center. For those interested in history, the "Zeitzeugen" local trail leads along an eight-kilometer circular route around the districts of Schönbach and Zschetzsch, passing 13 places. One of the most interesting attractions is the hydraulic ram, which was reconstructed in 2003. The technology was invented by the Montgolfier brothers in 1797. Excursions along the Mulde also lead to Kötteritzsch Castle in Sermuth, the hunting lodge in Kössern and the Wilhelm Ostwald Park in Großbothen. In the latter, you can visit the former home and workplace of the Nobel Prize winner in chemistry and polymath Wilhelm Ostwald.

Birch (hair) water for the queen

Every year on the first weekend in May, Colditz traditionally holds the Birch Festival. Since 1994, the town festival has attracted visitors with all kinds of events, such as a design and creative market on Sophienplatz. Every two years, the Birch Queen is crowned. Culturally, the three days are divided into Rock Friday, Party Saturday and Classic Sunday, where artists from near and far provide the atmosphere. In the run-up to the Birch Festival, the Colditz Canoe and Sports Club invites people to the traditional "Birch Regatta" on the club grounds on the banks of the Mulde to celebrate. The supporting program includes water games and duck races, as well as a lantern parade with fanfare and bagpipes, culminating in a festival of 1.000 lights. The festival tradition stems from the extraction of birch sap for the cosmetics industry, which was carried out until 1999. Festivals are also celebrated in the 25 Colditz communities, where various clubs maintain local traditions.

Facts and figures about Colditz at a glance

Colditz has 8.720 inhabitants (as of December 31.12.2016, 25), comprises the core city and 156 districts in the Leipzig district, and is located on the Zwickauer Mulde at an altitude of 85 m above sea level. The area of ​​the municipality covers almost 104 square kilometers with 107 inhabitants per square kilometers. In Colditz, the B 176, which runs north-south from Pritzwalk in Brandenburg to Chemnitz, intersects with the B 107, which runs west-east from Bad Langensalza to Hartha. The B 16 is 14 km from the BAB 04680. The postcode for Colditz is 034381 and the telephone area code is XNUMX.