© Robin Kunz

research texts

Geopark Porphyrland – on the trail of lava and ice

© Andreas Schmidt

When stones tell stories... The land east of Leipzig between the Hohburg Mountains, the Collm near Oschatz and the Rochlitzer Berg is rich in stones. If these stones could talk, they would have a lot to tell. Around 300 million years ago, massive eruptions of a huge super volcano left behind mighty porphyry covers and calderas with a diameter of up to 60 kilometers.

In one of the largest volcanic areas in Europe, the volcanic rocks gradually began to weather deeply and transform into valuable kaolin clays. The mining of raw materials such as kaolin and porphyry is an important industry that shapes the landscape and continues to shape the region to this day. During the Ice Age, enormous glacier masses formed the region's current landscape, leaving behind fascinating traces and giving rise to a diverse range of flora and fauna. The fascinating geology of the landscape and the history of stone mining can be experienced first hand in the geoportals of the Porphyrland Geopark.                                    

The "Porphyry Land" - a journey through 300 million years of Earth's history

The “Porphyrland” geopark, founded in 50, is located in the area of ​​the northwest Saxon volcanic complex, around 2006 kilometers southeast of Leipzig. With over 900 square kilometers, the Porphyrland is one of the largest volcanic areas in Central Europe. The volcanic rock dates back to the Rotliegend period around 300 million years ago. At that time, massive volcanic eruptions shook the region and left behind deposits of lava and volcanic tuff. Under tropical climatic conditions in the Cretaceous and Tertiary periods, the solid volcanic rocks weathered into clayey substrates. The erosion residues of these substrates provided kaolin, which is now sought after as a ceramic raw material. During the Elster and Saale glaciations 100.000 to 500.000 years ago, huge inland glaciers eroded the mountains, creating their characteristic rounded hump shape. The glacial polishes that are still visible are evidence of this period. To this day, weather-resistant porphyry covers form the distinctive peaks of the Saxon hills, including some brown coal deposits. The evidence of volcanism and the traces of the Ice Age visible on the porphyry are important geotopes, some of which are of national importance. Geotopes are particularly remarkable and vivid objects. These can be outcrops such as quarries, individual natural creations such as boulders and fossils, and large parts of the landscape such as mountains. On independent or guided tours through the Porphyrland Geopark, the aim is to discover hidden geological treasures, learn exciting stories about the development of the landscape and the special features of the local geotopes. The focus is primarily on mineral raw materials such as porphyry, brown coal, kaolin and gravel sand. Their occurrence, mining and use are presented in several visitor centers. Former quarries in the region are now popular destinations for hikers, climbers, divers and bathers.

Hidden treasures in the geoportals

If you want to read the traces of the past, understand the effects on the present and learn about approaches to shaping a sustainable future, the geoportals in Porphyrland are the right place for you. The portals are both a visitor center and a starting point for journeys of discovery into the surrounding area to geotopes or sights. The visitor centers regularly invite you to take part in guided hikes, adventure walks, geocaching, bike and boat tours, as well as lectures and workshops.

"Zeit-Wandel-Stein" in the Geoportal Herrenhaus Röcknitz

Since December 2007, the Röcknitz manor house has been used as a geoportal in the porphyry region. In its permanent exhibition "Time - Change - Stone. Moving geology of a landscape", the manor house provides information about the region's regional history. With the help of vivid prints, geological maps, special exhibition exhibits and impressive video animations, visitors are immersed in a world long gone. They learn about the origins of porphyry, kaolin and brown coal and find out which enormous forces led to the current landscape. The exhibition is supplemented by explanatory texts so that it appeals not only to experts but also to interested laypeople. In 2011, the manor house was expanded to include a geo-adventure garden, which invites both discovery and relaxation. The stone labyrinth and the barefoot path are particularly popular. This combines science and history with fun and games.

Living monument of the stone industry – the Museum Steinarbeiterhaus Hohburg

In a half-timbered building from 1802, not only is the history of the stone industry preserved, but the way of life of the stone workers is also brought to life. The Stoneworkers' House Museum in Hohburg is thus a living monument. Visitors are transported back to the time around 1910 and gain an insight into the typical living conditions of a stoneworker's family. The house, with its back-hall kitchen, parents' bedroom and living room with interior from that time, looks so authentic that you would think that a stoneworker's family actually still lived in the house. Hammers, drills, crowbars and other hand tools testify to the hard work of the stone breakers. A technology exhibition in the outdoor area includes a stone crushing plant that is still in working order, an engine house with a steam locomotive from 1907 and a cable car. Overall, the museum offers numerous historical objects from over two centuries. The attic is particularly popular. A corner shop, which was created from a special exhibition, is located here and attracts curious visitors all year round. In a quarry canteen on the upper floor there is space for coffee tables for up to 35 people. Special exhibitions that change every six months are also presented here. Folk and Dixieland concerts are held in the idyllic orchard in the summer months. The cultural highlight is the country concerts that take place every year in August. Guided tours are offered both through the museum itself and to the quarries in the Hohburg Mountains or to other sights in the Wurzen region.

Walking on the Porphyry Trail in Rochlitz

The red porphyry tuff in the quarries of the Rochlitzer Berg is unique and has shaped many important buildings in Saxony. The stone was used primarily in the construction of palaces, castles and churches. It was also used as building material for the Old Town Hall in Leipzig, the Grassi Museum and the Catholic provost church of St. Trinitatis, built in Leipzig in 2016. Due to its porphyry deposits, the Rochlitzer Berg is one of the most important geotopes in Germany. The Geoportal Porphyrhaus is also located here, a former social building of the porphyry quarries, which has been used as an information center since 2014. The focus here is on geological aspects and the clear imparting of knowledge. The Geoportal offers the best conditions for encountering flora and fauna and for nature-based lessons. These are carried out in the Porphyrhaus by the teachers themselves or by employed specialists. The facility, located between the Gleisbergbruch and the forest playground, offers sufficient space for seminars and workshops. The porphyry educational trail, the forest adventure trail and the "Adventure tour - on the heels of the porphyry" attract not only experts, schoolchildren and students, but also tourists. The tours convey the history of the mountain, but also interesting facts about the lives of the stonemasons. The "Stone Performance", which has taken place every year since 1997, is as unique as the red porphyry. With light and pyrotechnic effects, music and acting, the porphyry walls become a unique open-air backdrop.

Art and Diversity in the Schaddelmühle

The idyllic village of Schaddel is located near Grimma, directly on the Mulde. The geoportal "Earths of Ceramics" is located here, in the so-called "Schaddelmühle". The geoportal provides information about the rich history of the ceramic industry and ceramic crafts. In the early 1970s, fellow artists settled in the old water mill and founded the "Schaddelmühle" college of visual artists. The construction of studios and workshops made it possible to work in a variety of ways and to produce serial ceramics as well as unique pieces. Today, workshops and ceramics courses are organized in the Schaddelmühle under professional guidance. At the entrance to the Schaddelmühle there is a transformer house that serves as an information point for the Geopark. Here, visitors receive general information about the Geopark, explanations of the genesis of the clays and kaolin from the crystalline porphyries, and a presentation of historical evidence of industrial ceramics production.

Full speed ahead to the Mügeln narrow-gauge station

What once served as a central transshipment point for the transport of kaolin will become a geoportal in 2019. Kaolin has been mined in the immediate vicinity of the town of Mügeln for over 100 years. Until 2001, the so-called "white gold" was transported using the Döllnitzbahn. Today, the narrow-gauge railway runs exclusively with diesel engines for daily passenger and school transport. The visitor center deals with the raw material itself, its occurrence and its extraction in the past and present. In addition, insights are given into the use of kaolin in crafts and industry. The history and technology of the narrow-gauge railway can be experienced thanks to a tour of the station grounds. On selected weekends and public holidays as well as for special events, a steam locomotive over 100 years old, the "Sächsische IV K", is used.

Individual discovery tours

The Geopark offers guided tours to the respective geotopes. Since the tours vary according to thematic and regional focus, they are organized by individual arrangement. Anyone who wants to explore the geological features of the Leipzig region independently can use the following routes:

Geo-route “Little Mountain” – Hohburg

Fascinating discoveries can be made on a three-kilometer forest hike with a short, steep climb to the Kleiner Berg. The path leads past a former kaolin open-cast mine to the wind and glacier polishes that are not only visible but also tangible. Here you can experience geology up close.

Path of Stones – Grimma

This eight-kilometer-long route along the Mulde leads to a total of 28 stone stations, which offer a glimpse into the past with stone signposts and sculptures. Unusual seating stones invite you to linger. The tour begins at the Pöppelmann Bridge in Grimma and leads over the Rabenstein to Höfgen and finally over the stone cliffs to Förstgen.

Porphyry educational trail on the Rochlitzer Berg

The porphyry educational trail provides information on the history of the Rochlitz mountain and porphyry over a distance of 2,7 kilometers. The focus is on the mining methods of the raw material and the life of the stonemasons. Important porphyry buildings and their history are also not neglected.

Geopfad Markkleeberger See – Störmthaler See

A total of 16 steles stand at the Markkleeberg and Störmthal lakes and provide an insight into the earth's history at the time of brown coal mining in the Espenhain open-cast mine. Each stele has its own special theme.

Events around the stone

In addition to the individual offers, annual events attract numerous visitors to Porphyrland. The highlights in the event calendar are listed below:

The “Performance zum Stein” thrills every year on the last weekend in June with an impressive show on the Rochlitzer Berg. The mountain film festival in the former Gaudlitzberg quarry in Röcknitz also attracts numerous cinema owls, climbing enthusiasts and ambitious recreational athletes every year on the last weekend in August.

The narrow-gauge railway station in Mügeln becomes an El Dorado for railway enthusiasts on the second weekend in September for the Open Monument Day. Among other things, trips on various historic railway models and panoramic carriages are offered. One weekend later, on the third Sunday in September, the "Geotope Day" invites visitors to the Geopark. Various offers, including guided tours with geo-rangers and geoscientists, provide insights into the impressive creation and use of natural resources.

Further geotourism offers

Other geotourism offers show that the geopark stands for more than just stones. For example, the disused quarries in the Porphyrland Geopark have served as a climbing paradise for outdoor enthusiasts and mountaineers since 1920. Climbing tours with various levels of difficulty crisscross the porphyry today. In addition to Hohburger Schweiz, routes around Brandis and Rochlitzer Berg also invite you to climb.

The Geopark also has a lot to offer the region in terms of cuisine. Thanks to geological developments, the foundations for delicious regional cuisine have been created.

The fertile loess soils on which the orchards of the Saxon Fruitland are located today were created during the ice ages. In addition, the numerous manors, castles and manor houses created fish ponds to supply them, and their abundance of fish has been preserved to this day. Wermsdorf fish in particular is still highly valued across the region. The Wermsdorf Forest, which runs through the Geopark, also still serves as a valuable supplier of fresh game today. In 2018, the Wermsdorf Forest was named Forest Area of ​​the Year by the Association of German Foresters.

The fresh produce and handicrafts from the porphyry region have always been offered at regional markets. This tradition has been preserved to some extent to this day. In the future, the regional products can also be enjoyed in Geopark hotels and numerous places to stop for refreshments.

Anyone who would like to get an overview of the geotourism offers in the Leipzig region will find the brochure “On the trail of lava and ice” a good guide. The brochure is available from the Leipzig Tourist Information and from all geoportals.